Hvar without a car: how to get around the island and find its hidden bays
Renting a car or a scooter on an island sounds like freedom, but a Hvar summer usually means narrow roads, tight hairpin bends and endless circling in search of a parking space. Choosing to explore the island without a steering wheel of your own is, in practice, the smartest move you can make for a relaxed and safe holiday.
Key points in 20 seconds
- The centre of Hvar Town is pedestrianised, and the car parks outside it charge steep rates in high season.
- Four places worth the trip: Jagodna, Basina, the Napoleon fortress and Robinson bay.
- The bus is cheapest, a boat is the most scenic, and a private transfer is the most flexible for hidden bays.
4 hidden spots no hunting for parking drop-off right at the path Why you don't really need a car on Hvar
Most visitors underestimate how traffic works on the island. Hvar Town itself is entirely pedestrianised, and the car parks just outside the old centre reach eye-watering prices in summer. Driving unfamiliar roads after a long day in the sun, or after a glass of local plavac, also takes away the very thing you came for.
Once the car is off your mind, you experience the island in a completely different way: more relaxed, and easier on both your budget and your time.
Bays and places you shouldn't miss
Jagodna bay
Set between Sveta Nedjelja and Ivan Dolac, this bay has crystal-clear water and dramatic rock faces above it. A narrow lane leads down with no proper car park at the end, so a private transfer leaves you right at the top of the path and spares you a long walk in the heat.
Basina bay
On the northern side of the island near Vrboska, Basina is a sheltered inlet, ideal for anyone after quiet, the scent of pine and turquoise shallows far from the crowds.
The Napoleon fortress
Standing 228 metres above Hvar Town, this fort offers a far wider and more impressive view than the better-known Fortica. The climb is long and steep in full sun, so a short drive is the only comfortable way to be up there at dusk.
Robinson bay
Once the drive drops you in Milna, an easy stroll along the narrow coastal path leads to secluded bays where you can enjoy the silence and fresh fish in proper castaway surroundings.
Comparing your transport options on the island
| Type of transport | Pros | Cons | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Public bus | Very cheap | Runs infrequently, links only the main towns | Getting between Hvar Town and Stari Grad |
| Local boats | Travel by sea, quick access | Depend on the weather and the wind | Day trips to the Pakleni Islands |
| Private transfer or taxi | Flexible timing, straight to the door | Higher fare per trip than the bus | Hidden bays, nights out, families and groups |
Swipe the table sideways to see all the columns.
Tips for planning it well, without the stress
Grouping locations is the key to saving money: combine neighbouring stops into a single outing, say a swim at Basina followed by lunch in Vrboska, so each ride earns its keep.
And to avoid any surprises over the price once you're there, always go for options with the fare agreed in advance.
When you fancy one of these hidden beaches, or a relaxed ride home after dinner in another town, the simplest way to do it is through the PickApp app. You see the exact fare before you book, follow your driver's arrival in real time and explore Hvar exactly as you like, without a trace of stress.
Ivana
born on Hvar, writes about the islandShe explores the island well away from the main routes and knows the bays that are hardest to reach by car. She writes guides for the PickApp blog.
8 Comments
How do we get to the pakleni islands
Water taxis from the harbour in Hvar town, all day in season. Buy on the spot and agree the return time with the boatman.
taxi + hike? like drop at velo grablje and walk back
Yes, popular. Drop at Velo Grablje, walk the old lavender trail down towards Milna or back to town. Book a pickup at the end if needed.
hvar town to milna on the coastal path is about an hour. taxi back was welcome
Whole week car-free: taxis for beaches, boat to palmizana, bus to stari grad. never missed the car
Is a week without a car realistic if we want more than hvar town?
Very. Boat taxis to the Pakleni islands, buses between the main towns, taxis for beaches and villages. A week covers Stari Grad, Jelsa, a few coves and a winery without a car.